On 24 April 2013, a tragic incident in Bangladesh rewrote the history of fashion. 1,134 garment workers died and over 2,500 were injured during the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory complex in Dhaka, which manufactured clothing for the likes of Primark, Bonmarche and Benetton. The news shook the world further still when it was discovered that during the lead-up to the tragedy, workers were restricted from leaving the building – even though it was considered unsafe.
Terrible working conditions of factory staff are just the tip of the iceberg. As the 2015 documentary, The True Cost illustrates, every step of the fashion supply chain is stained with severe environmental and ethical impact – from the cotton field to the shop floor and beyond. As consumers, we share the responsibility of manufacturers and retailers for the effect our shopping habits have on the planet. Man Repeller points out: ‘For better or worse, consumption is a powerful act. We vote once every couple of years, but we spend money, in some form, basically every day.’
So, what can you actually do to make your wardrobe more sustainable, especially on a student budget?
Be aware
Awareness is the first step. Instead of simply looking at trends and low price tags, it is important to factor in the ethical and environmental impact of our purchases as well. However, be wary that not all companies claiming to be environmentally friendly and respect their workers’ rights actually live up to their promises. With the rising interest in sustainable fashion, many retailers have simply adopted sustainability as a PR rhetoric that diminishes any feelings of guilt in their customers and effectively drives sales. Due to the complex nature of their supply chains, it is often difficult to prove whether they are lying or not. Luckily, there are a number of websites such as GoodGuide, Ethical Consumer or Rankabrand, which publish the results of their own research and allow customers to check how a brand stands in terms of sustainability before buying into it.
Get answers
If we as customers start asking the right questions and demanding that retailers answer them, they will eventually have no choice but to change the way they operate. This idea has become the basis of Fashion Revolution, a non-profit organisation that aims to put pressure on manufacturers to be more open about their supply chains. You might have noticed people on your Instagram feed wearing their clothes inside out, showing the tags, and asking retailers the important question - #whomademyclothes. Dubbed the Fashion Revolution Day, this annual social media happening aims to raise awareness about the unethical practices of many fashion retailers and push these retailers to take responsibility for their actions. Actively demanding more honesty from retailers about where their products come from is a step towards a future with more sustainable shopping choices.
Buy less
Vivienne Westwood, the legendary British fashion designer and environmental activist, is often quoted saying: “Buy less. Choose well. Make it last.” These are basically the three 'commandments' of slow fashion, and they can be friendly for your budget as well. The low prices of clothing have programmed us to think of them as disposable goods rather than something to be kept and passed down. Not only does this result in an enormous amount of clothing waste, but the exchange of a ten pound note for a fleeting endorphin rush distracts us from being aware of how much we actually spend on clothes every month. Avoiding impulse purchases can be challenging with every store luring us in with giant sale signs or 'last chance to buy' pieces, but the foolproof way to resist temptation is simply: don’t go into the shop! Or don’t browse through online stores just to kill time – it often ends with a slimmer bank balance and heavier shopping basket.
Keep it local
There are also several alternatives to unethical high street chains. Shopping locally and seeking out small artisan manufacturers is always better than having something shipped from the opposite side of the planet. Plus, as the interest in sustainability has been rising there are constantly new 'green' brands popping up. Check out The Guardian's Ethical Fashion Directory or The Good Trade website. Naturally, their prices can't compete with high street retailers because it costs more to manufacture clothing in small quantities without exploiting their workers and the environment, but you are paying for quality and a healthy conscience. Vintage is another good way to soften your environmental footprint. Vintage or charity shops are fun treasure hunt spots where you can find good quality clothing for cheaper, and as a bonus reduce the amount of clothing waste that pollutes the planet.
Fast fashion might seem inescapable, but it's important to remember that as consumers we don't have to buy into it and that our purchase decisions really can make a difference. Rather than feeling guilty about every purchase you've ever made, start slow by training yourself to be aware of what you buy and doing your research before opening your wallet. It might seem like way too much effort to put into buying clothes but the end result of a good product coming from a good source is always worth it. Compared to hours and hours of mindless window shopping, it might end up saving you some time as well.
