You may have heard of Vang Vieng as the former backpacker capital of South East Asia. After a strict government crackdown and a few years of transition, the town has shed its old reputation and reinvented itself ... and shows a promising future.
Three hours north of Laos’ capital Vientiane, Vang Vieng used to attract travellers from all over the world for its infamous party and tubing (riding on water on a large inflated inner tube) scene. But alcohol and drug excess coupled with lack of regulations, turned it into a deathtrap – claiming 27 travellers’ lives in 2011 alone. A year later the government intervened and closed most of the riverside bars, where the shenanigans took place. Rumours that tubing was dead spread quickly and backpackers stopped coming; it was a blow for the local economy.
Fast-forward 5 years, and the town has been revitalised by new enterprises that offer alternative - and more sustainable - activities.
Vang Vieng in itself has very little going for it as a town. It’s all about its location. It sits by the Nam Song River and it is surrounded by towering karst limestone mountains, caves, lagoons and idyllic farmland. This spectacular landscape has helped in the rebrand of a decadent party town, transforming it into a place where the surrounding countryside is once again the key attraction, and outdoor sports are the way to enjoy it.
Paddle down the river on a kayak
Nam Song River is the big attraction here, and as soon as you step into your kayak you can easily see why. Tree-covered limestone karsts projecting into the sky wherever you look and the tranquil countryside give you the sense that you are somewhere very remote. Paddling down a gently flowing river is a good way to relax while enjoying the nature around you. Start in the morning to avoid the tubing crowds.
Tubing (yes, still alive and kicking)
Tubing is still Vang Vieng’s favourite past time. But it is a much more relaxed affair now. There are no ‘death slides’ or precarious rope swings over shallow water, and only two bars along the river bank are open at any one time (there used to be 11). The fun tends to start from midday onwards and goes on till sunset. Hire a tube in one of the rental shops, jump in a tuk tuk to the starting point and let yourself go with the flow.
Explore in the pitch black
Another highly popular activity is tubing inside a cave. Tham Nam (‘Water Cave’) has a rope to guide you and pull yourself along as you float through this flooded cave system. Once deep inside the cave, the guide will ask you to turn off the headlamps for a rare opportunity to experience pitch black darkness.
Mountain biking
There is a reason Vang Vieng became so popular in the first place, and that is the dramatic landscape around it. But despite all the mountains, some of the routes are mostly flat - and there is no better way to explore them than on a mountain bike. Hire a bike in town for about £2 a day, get a free map and plan a route that takes you to the Blue Lagoon, dozens of caves and waterfalls.
Flying over the jungle
There are two ways you can enjoy the jungle from above. Hot air balloon rides take you high over the town and mountains three times a day – sunrise, afternoon and sunset. A bit closer to the ground, ziplining is the preferred option for the more adventurous. There are a couple of sites where you can have your adrenaline fix, with different levels of difficulty, but equal measures of excitement. One of the courses can even be combined with a Via Ferrata route.
Rock climbing
The limestone karsts outcrops that surround Vang Vieng offer great climbing opportunities for the outdoorsy traveller, from first timers to experienced climbers. With 50 routes spread over three different areas, you can choose to do a half-day to a four day course or if you have a certain level of experience you can just throw yourself straight into it.
Let’s not forget partying!
After a few quiet years, Vang Vieng has slowly returned to the party circuit, with enough to entice backpackers to come back but without the excesses of the old days. In addition to a couple of bars along the river banks on the tubing routes, there are a few popular spots in town. Sakura is a well known bar that offers free drinks from 8-9pm every night and also has beer pong tables and a dance floor. Kangaroo Sunset Bar is another classic in the Vang Vieng party scene and as the name suggests, it’s a great spot to enjoy the sunset.
It is clear that Vang Vieng has worked hard to reinvent itself as an ecotourism destination. The transition from a centre of hedonism hasn’t been easy for the town, but residents are doing their best to make the local tourist industry future proof by trying to balance making a living and maintaining their own culture.
Discover more of Teresa's adventures at www.broganabroad.com
Cover photo: l@mie via Flickr
